Hello all,
Does anyone know of a photography club in Vancouver? I'm interested in joining a club that does things like field-trips (especially ones where I can get a lift in someone else's car), photo "challenges", talks etc. Does that kind of thing exist here?
Sam
Thursday, February 28, 2008
Tuesday, February 26, 2008
Photographer's Sites to Check Out!
OK, I admit that I am very partial to BW photography, so here are some Photographers to check out:
Ralph Gibson
Michael Kenna
Video about Michael Kenna's work (really worth seeing)
Josef Hoflehner
Helmut Newton
Check out these free and rare VIDEO Interviews with Master Photographers
The best PhotoBook store (click on the galleries section!)
PDN Legends Online, a great collection of the most influential photographers!
Index of the Masters Of Photography!
Ralph Gibson
Michael Kenna
Video about Michael Kenna's work (really worth seeing)
Josef Hoflehner
Helmut Newton
Check out these free and rare VIDEO Interviews with Master Photographers
The best PhotoBook store (click on the galleries section!)
PDN Legends Online, a great collection of the most influential photographers!
Index of the Masters Of Photography!
Saturday, February 16, 2008
Query - Photo Organization Software
I would like to be able to organize my growing collection of images, including labelling, tagging, searching by subject tags, etc. Can anyone recommend a good software package. I'm using the "Picture Project" that came with my camera, and it is cumbersome and slow.
Thanks ... Nancy
Thanks ... Nancy
High Contrast Problem
Took this while on holiday in Britain; afternoon with really brilliant light, thus hard shadows; lost all the information of his face. I'd love some suggestions as to how I could have exposed this more successfully. Not looking for an HDR solution, as I haven't explored that technique yet.
Thursday, February 14, 2008
White Balance - Unbalanced
Following up on our white balance discussion of yesterday, I thought I'd post an example of what happens when you shoot in daylight with the camera set to incandescent (tungsten).
I was able to correct the WB, but it would have been simpler to do it right at first. And, it seems to me that there is less information, espcially in the sky.
I was able to correct the WB, but it would have been simpler to do it right at first. And, it seems to me that there is less information, espcially in the sky.
Cheers .. NancyWednesday, February 13, 2008
Automatic ISO
Here's a quick tip for Nikon, Pentax and Olympus users (I think it works on Olympus too). For Canon users, you have to have one of their latest cameras, like the 40D. It does not work on the Rebel or Rebel XTI (unfortunately).
The above mentioned cameras have an automatic ISO adjustment. You can use this to help you take "better" pictures in low light. When the light level drops, the camera will automatically adjust the ISO to compensate for the low light.
With some camera models, you can also specify a minimum shutter speed. This is a great option as it increases the ISO automatically when your shutter speed is getting too slow to guarantee you sharp images. Due to the increased ISO, you may maintain a minimum specified shutter speed automatically even in changing light conditions. I would recommend setting it to 1/30 for starts.
Remember that the higher your ISO, the lower your general image quality, so be 'gentle' with your adjustments.
Pentax camera go even a step further by giving you a dedicated shooting mode that adjust ISO automatically.
Looks like Canon has finally caught on and put this feature in their newer cameras.
It really can be useful. Try it if your camera offers this setting!
The above mentioned cameras have an automatic ISO adjustment. You can use this to help you take "better" pictures in low light. When the light level drops, the camera will automatically adjust the ISO to compensate for the low light.
With some camera models, you can also specify a minimum shutter speed. This is a great option as it increases the ISO automatically when your shutter speed is getting too slow to guarantee you sharp images. Due to the increased ISO, you may maintain a minimum specified shutter speed automatically even in changing light conditions. I would recommend setting it to 1/30 for starts.
Remember that the higher your ISO, the lower your general image quality, so be 'gentle' with your adjustments.
Pentax camera go even a step further by giving you a dedicated shooting mode that adjust ISO automatically.
Looks like Canon has finally caught on and put this feature in their newer cameras.
It really can be useful. Try it if your camera offers this setting!
Shooting in LOW Light
OK, let's get this EV and low light problem resolved.
I did post this as a comment to an earlier post in this blog, but thought it is important enough to put it out here as well. Hopefully it will be more visible and help you all!
Sam is right in saying that in low light we often have to select a higher ISO if we want to maintain a fast shutter speed. A tripod is of little help as well, as it only helps you to reduce camera shake but does not help you to freeze subject movement (VR or IS lenses have the same limitations).
So far so good, but let's talk about EV. What Sam refers to is actually not called EV, but exposure compensation. EV simply stands for exposure value, i.e. a specific shutter speed and aperture. Exposure compensation is available by a +- button on most cameras. This will adjust your exposures to look either brighter (+) or darker (-), but in order to do this it has to adjust either shutter speed, aperture or ISO. If all of those variable are maxed out already, exposure compensation will NOT work. Your image will look the same.
When shooting in low light, the most effective 'weapon' really is a 'fast' lens, meaning a lens that is able to give you a wider maximum aperture (i.e. F1.8). This will allow you to work with a reasonable ISO while still maintaining a fast enough shutter speed.
Finally, in really dark situations, you may want to resort to using a flash (when even the fastest lens and highest ISO does not help anymore).
I did post this as a comment to an earlier post in this blog, but thought it is important enough to put it out here as well. Hopefully it will be more visible and help you all!
Sam is right in saying that in low light we often have to select a higher ISO if we want to maintain a fast shutter speed. A tripod is of little help as well, as it only helps you to reduce camera shake but does not help you to freeze subject movement (VR or IS lenses have the same limitations).
So far so good, but let's talk about EV. What Sam refers to is actually not called EV, but exposure compensation. EV simply stands for exposure value, i.e. a specific shutter speed and aperture. Exposure compensation is available by a +- button on most cameras. This will adjust your exposures to look either brighter (+) or darker (-), but in order to do this it has to adjust either shutter speed, aperture or ISO. If all of those variable are maxed out already, exposure compensation will NOT work. Your image will look the same.
When shooting in low light, the most effective 'weapon' really is a 'fast' lens, meaning a lens that is able to give you a wider maximum aperture (i.e. F1.8). This will allow you to work with a reasonable ISO while still maintaining a fast enough shutter speed.
Finally, in really dark situations, you may want to resort to using a flash (when even the fastest lens and highest ISO does not help anymore).
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