Hello all,
Does anyone know of a photography club in Vancouver? I'm interested in joining a club that does things like field-trips (especially ones where I can get a lift in someone else's car), photo "challenges", talks etc. Does that kind of thing exist here?
Sam
Thursday, February 28, 2008
Tuesday, February 26, 2008
Photographer's Sites to Check Out!
OK, I admit that I am very partial to BW photography, so here are some Photographers to check out:
Ralph Gibson
Michael Kenna
Video about Michael Kenna's work (really worth seeing)
Josef Hoflehner
Helmut Newton
Check out these free and rare VIDEO Interviews with Master Photographers
The best PhotoBook store (click on the galleries section!)
PDN Legends Online, a great collection of the most influential photographers!
Index of the Masters Of Photography!
Ralph Gibson
Michael Kenna
Video about Michael Kenna's work (really worth seeing)
Josef Hoflehner
Helmut Newton
Check out these free and rare VIDEO Interviews with Master Photographers
The best PhotoBook store (click on the galleries section!)
PDN Legends Online, a great collection of the most influential photographers!
Index of the Masters Of Photography!
Saturday, February 16, 2008
Query - Photo Organization Software
I would like to be able to organize my growing collection of images, including labelling, tagging, searching by subject tags, etc. Can anyone recommend a good software package. I'm using the "Picture Project" that came with my camera, and it is cumbersome and slow.
Thanks ... Nancy
Thanks ... Nancy
High Contrast Problem
Took this while on holiday in Britain; afternoon with really brilliant light, thus hard shadows; lost all the information of his face. I'd love some suggestions as to how I could have exposed this more successfully. Not looking for an HDR solution, as I haven't explored that technique yet.
Thursday, February 14, 2008
White Balance - Unbalanced
Following up on our white balance discussion of yesterday, I thought I'd post an example of what happens when you shoot in daylight with the camera set to incandescent (tungsten).
I was able to correct the WB, but it would have been simpler to do it right at first. And, it seems to me that there is less information, espcially in the sky.
I was able to correct the WB, but it would have been simpler to do it right at first. And, it seems to me that there is less information, espcially in the sky.
Cheers .. NancyWednesday, February 13, 2008
Automatic ISO
Here's a quick tip for Nikon, Pentax and Olympus users (I think it works on Olympus too). For Canon users, you have to have one of their latest cameras, like the 40D. It does not work on the Rebel or Rebel XTI (unfortunately).
The above mentioned cameras have an automatic ISO adjustment. You can use this to help you take "better" pictures in low light. When the light level drops, the camera will automatically adjust the ISO to compensate for the low light.
With some camera models, you can also specify a minimum shutter speed. This is a great option as it increases the ISO automatically when your shutter speed is getting too slow to guarantee you sharp images. Due to the increased ISO, you may maintain a minimum specified shutter speed automatically even in changing light conditions. I would recommend setting it to 1/30 for starts.
Remember that the higher your ISO, the lower your general image quality, so be 'gentle' with your adjustments.
Pentax camera go even a step further by giving you a dedicated shooting mode that adjust ISO automatically.
Looks like Canon has finally caught on and put this feature in their newer cameras.
It really can be useful. Try it if your camera offers this setting!
The above mentioned cameras have an automatic ISO adjustment. You can use this to help you take "better" pictures in low light. When the light level drops, the camera will automatically adjust the ISO to compensate for the low light.
With some camera models, you can also specify a minimum shutter speed. This is a great option as it increases the ISO automatically when your shutter speed is getting too slow to guarantee you sharp images. Due to the increased ISO, you may maintain a minimum specified shutter speed automatically even in changing light conditions. I would recommend setting it to 1/30 for starts.
Remember that the higher your ISO, the lower your general image quality, so be 'gentle' with your adjustments.
Pentax camera go even a step further by giving you a dedicated shooting mode that adjust ISO automatically.
Looks like Canon has finally caught on and put this feature in their newer cameras.
It really can be useful. Try it if your camera offers this setting!
Shooting in LOW Light
OK, let's get this EV and low light problem resolved.
I did post this as a comment to an earlier post in this blog, but thought it is important enough to put it out here as well. Hopefully it will be more visible and help you all!
Sam is right in saying that in low light we often have to select a higher ISO if we want to maintain a fast shutter speed. A tripod is of little help as well, as it only helps you to reduce camera shake but does not help you to freeze subject movement (VR or IS lenses have the same limitations).
So far so good, but let's talk about EV. What Sam refers to is actually not called EV, but exposure compensation. EV simply stands for exposure value, i.e. a specific shutter speed and aperture. Exposure compensation is available by a +- button on most cameras. This will adjust your exposures to look either brighter (+) or darker (-), but in order to do this it has to adjust either shutter speed, aperture or ISO. If all of those variable are maxed out already, exposure compensation will NOT work. Your image will look the same.
When shooting in low light, the most effective 'weapon' really is a 'fast' lens, meaning a lens that is able to give you a wider maximum aperture (i.e. F1.8). This will allow you to work with a reasonable ISO while still maintaining a fast enough shutter speed.
Finally, in really dark situations, you may want to resort to using a flash (when even the fastest lens and highest ISO does not help anymore).
I did post this as a comment to an earlier post in this blog, but thought it is important enough to put it out here as well. Hopefully it will be more visible and help you all!
Sam is right in saying that in low light we often have to select a higher ISO if we want to maintain a fast shutter speed. A tripod is of little help as well, as it only helps you to reduce camera shake but does not help you to freeze subject movement (VR or IS lenses have the same limitations).
So far so good, but let's talk about EV. What Sam refers to is actually not called EV, but exposure compensation. EV simply stands for exposure value, i.e. a specific shutter speed and aperture. Exposure compensation is available by a +- button on most cameras. This will adjust your exposures to look either brighter (+) or darker (-), but in order to do this it has to adjust either shutter speed, aperture or ISO. If all of those variable are maxed out already, exposure compensation will NOT work. Your image will look the same.
When shooting in low light, the most effective 'weapon' really is a 'fast' lens, meaning a lens that is able to give you a wider maximum aperture (i.e. F1.8). This will allow you to work with a reasonable ISO while still maintaining a fast enough shutter speed.
Finally, in really dark situations, you may want to resort to using a flash (when even the fastest lens and highest ISO does not help anymore).
Blog Idea
I'd like to see some suggestions for exercises; assignments, themes posted on the blog.
Cheers ... Nancy
Cheers ... Nancy
Playing with DOF
I just bought myself a 50mm lens and have been experimenting with the wider aperatures now available to me. On the positive side I've already noticed that I can shoot in much lower light. But, the trade-off is that, when shooting close up, it is difficult to get sharp focus, and you have to be really conscious of what will be in focus, especially while shooting close up.
This morning I was attracted to the wonderful light hitting the mini-rose on my kitchen windowsill. So I played with the F-stop. I set each shot at close as the lens would allow (about 19"). No processing, just cropping.
The first shot was made at F1.8. I noticed that only the edges of a few petals of the tiny rose are in focus, even though the blossom is less than 3/4" across.
The next rose was shot at F4. Now the whole rose is in focus. Much easier to do, but already the background is more distracting to me. And, the background is much darker.
This next was shot at F11
And, this at F22 (to complete the range available to me). In this, the whole rose bush is in focus but the background is really distracting.
So, clearly trade-offs to be made.
Cheers ... Nancy
This morning I was attracted to the wonderful light hitting the mini-rose on my kitchen windowsill. So I played with the F-stop. I set each shot at close as the lens would allow (about 19"). No processing, just cropping.
The first shot was made at F1.8. I noticed that only the edges of a few petals of the tiny rose are in focus, even though the blossom is less than 3/4" across.
The next rose was shot at F4. Now the whole rose is in focus. Much easier to do, but already the background is more distracting to me. And, the background is much darker.
This next was shot at F11
And, this at F22 (to complete the range available to me). In this, the whole rose bush is in focus but the background is really distracting.
So, clearly trade-offs to be made. Cheers ... Nancy
Tuesday, February 12, 2008
Beau Photo
Hello everyone,
I wanted to write a quick note to encourage you all to go rent stuff from Beau Photo. I rented a Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 L IS USM Lens from them over the weekend, and had a great deal of fun with it. The staff were very friendly and helpful, even when my nasty UK credit card refused to accept the enormous deposit I needed to put down for the lens. It cost me under $40 to rent this lens for the weekend (Fri PM to Mon AM), which is just fantastic.
Here are some photos I took (with my Canon 400D aka Digital Rebel XTi). Any comment/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Sam
Bald Eagle - it would have been great if I could have gota full reflection here, but nevermind.
Short-eared owl
Northern Harrier - I was trying to get a shilhouette
I wanted to write a quick note to encourage you all to go rent stuff from Beau Photo. I rented a Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 L IS USM Lens from them over the weekend, and had a great deal of fun with it. The staff were very friendly and helpful, even when my nasty UK credit card refused to accept the enormous deposit I needed to put down for the lens. It cost me under $40 to rent this lens for the weekend (Fri PM to Mon AM), which is just fantastic.
Here are some photos I took (with my Canon 400D aka Digital Rebel XTi). Any comment/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Sam
Bald Eagle - it would have been great if I could have gota full reflection here, but nevermind.
Short-eared owl
Northern Harrier - I was trying to get a shilhouette
Struggling with EV
I think I just haven't got it yet! I am still struggling to get the correct exposure for my pictures in dark surroundings, for example inside my apartment when I don't want to use a flash or even outside on one of those fabulous Vancouver days we had recently.
If my aperture is open to the maximum but the shutter speed selected by the camera is too slow to hand-hold the camera, is my only choice to increase ISO or is there any impact by changing the EV value (in program mode, for example)?
And I guess second part of my question, if EV is not going to change the exposure in my above example, do I only use it when there is still room in the aperture but I actually don't want to change aperture as I want a specific depth of field?
Thanks!
Petra
If my aperture is open to the maximum but the shutter speed selected by the camera is too slow to hand-hold the camera, is my only choice to increase ISO or is there any impact by changing the EV value (in program mode, for example)?
And I guess second part of my question, if EV is not going to change the exposure in my above example, do I only use it when there is still room in the aperture but I actually don't want to change aperture as I want a specific depth of field?
Thanks!
Petra
Selecting the 'right' shooting Mode
Hello everyone,
below, please find some images that will hopefully help you to understand when to choose the 'right' shooting mode on your digital camera. I will go over these in class as well, so note down any questions you may have.
I have shot these last week, on a brief walk through downtown.
The first image was taken in program mode, meaning the camera selected an aperture and shutter speed at random (based on the camera's computer evaluation). As you can see, the car driving by is slightly blurry.
When looking at a photograph, I encourage you to try and pin down exactly what it is you would like to change. Now that you are learning and getting experience with your camera(s), you may want to take an image in Program Mode first, so that you can see what the camera is choosing for you.If you like what you see, then move on to the next scene. If you don't like it, then adjust your camera settings accordingly. In this case, I did not like the fact that the car was slightly blurred, I wanted it rendered sharp instead.
So I switched to shutter priority (TV on a Canon, S on a Nikon) as this gives me control over what shutter speed the camera will use. I selected a faster shutter speed of 1/500 of a second which froze the car and rendered it sharp.
For the final image, I decided to use shutter priority mode again. This time, I felt a bit more creative, and wanted to blur the cars a lot more. Program mode showed the car neither completely sharp nor blurred, so using shutter priority gives you the control to go either way consistently. For this image, my shutter speed was slowed down to 1/4 of a second.
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I did these two images to illustrate when to select Aperture Priority Mode (AV on Canon, A on Nikon) on your cameras. As discussed in class, the creative job of aperture is to control DOF (depth-of-field, or the area of acceptable sharpness in your image). I wanted to limit sharpness and only have the sign in front in focus. So I selected the largest aperture (which equals the smallest F number on your camera) using aperture priority mode. Program Mode would not have given me this precise control. As above, you can see that the same scene can be recorded in different ways. You just have to pick the look you want, and whether shutter speed or aperture can get you there.
Remember, select shutter priority to control movement in your photographs.
Select aperture priority to control DOF.
See you in class!
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below, please find some images that will hopefully help you to understand when to choose the 'right' shooting mode on your digital camera. I will go over these in class as well, so note down any questions you may have.
I have shot these last week, on a brief walk through downtown.
The first image was taken in program mode, meaning the camera selected an aperture and shutter speed at random (based on the camera's computer evaluation). As you can see, the car driving by is slightly blurry.
When looking at a photograph, I encourage you to try and pin down exactly what it is you would like to change. Now that you are learning and getting experience with your camera(s), you may want to take an image in Program Mode first, so that you can see what the camera is choosing for you.If you like what you see, then move on to the next scene. If you don't like it, then adjust your camera settings accordingly. In this case, I did not like the fact that the car was slightly blurred, I wanted it rendered sharp instead.
So I switched to shutter priority (TV on a Canon, S on a Nikon) as this gives me control over what shutter speed the camera will use. I selected a faster shutter speed of 1/500 of a second which froze the car and rendered it sharp.
For the final image, I decided to use shutter priority mode again. This time, I felt a bit more creative, and wanted to blur the cars a lot more. Program mode showed the car neither completely sharp nor blurred, so using shutter priority gives you the control to go either way consistently. For this image, my shutter speed was slowed down to 1/4 of a second.
.jpg)
.jpg)
I did these two images to illustrate when to select Aperture Priority Mode (AV on Canon, A on Nikon) on your cameras. As discussed in class, the creative job of aperture is to control DOF (depth-of-field, or the area of acceptable sharpness in your image). I wanted to limit sharpness and only have the sign in front in focus. So I selected the largest aperture (which equals the smallest F number on your camera) using aperture priority mode. Program Mode would not have given me this precise control. As above, you can see that the same scene can be recorded in different ways. You just have to pick the look you want, and whether shutter speed or aperture can get you there.
Remember, select shutter priority to control movement in your photographs.
Select aperture priority to control DOF.
See you in class!
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.jpg)
Tuesday, February 5, 2008
"Performance" Gallery Show!
Don't miss thiis opportunity to see Photography in Vancouver!
This Friday at 8pm at the Exposure Gallery located on 754 East Broadway.
Exposure Gallery is one of the only galleries in town solely dedicated to photography. The shows are famous for great turnouts and energy- you really get a feel for the community the minute you step through the door! This gallery supports emerging photographers, so if you'd like to see your work on the wall come and see what they have to offer. Exposure Gallery is run by a non-profit society and works exclusively on a volunteer basis. I am on the board of Directors, and have been in 20+ shows. Don't miss this great opportunity. See you there!
For more information about the gallery, please visit their website: www.exposure-gallery.com
Hello Everyone!
Welcome to this new blog.
It is our hope that you will use this blog to post images, exchange feedback, ask questions and generally connect with each other outside of class time. In contrast to many other similar services out there, this blog is for the exclusive use of you and your fellow class mates only (think of them as a great resource). Ask questions and post comments as you all venture through this course together. The potential is there for this blog to be a great addition to your learning experience. I welcome any and all of your posts.
It is our hope that you will use this blog to post images, exchange feedback, ask questions and generally connect with each other outside of class time. In contrast to many other similar services out there, this blog is for the exclusive use of you and your fellow class mates only (think of them as a great resource). Ask questions and post comments as you all venture through this course together. The potential is there for this blog to be a great addition to your learning experience. I welcome any and all of your posts.
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